Base pattern: Burda 05/1999, model 101 (top)
Fabric: shell 100% printed cotton lining cotton batiste
I really wanted to copy a dress which I mentioned in April monthly and I was really, really trying to figure out how to do it - after 3 failed attempts, I managed to sew a top with this exact collar without much of issues with collar itself.
Contrary to bit of misinfo one sbstacker said, this type of neckline was additionally popular, especially in commercial patterns, in the mid 60s. Starting a bit earlier, even in late 50s. Indeed, 40s had tied necklines and media did reference 40s, but that dress references 60s and 70s at once. Miuccia's work at that time was really loaded with specific influences from these decades which were mixing with more and more 40s references - it was a blend, at that exact moment lot of bygone decades of fashion were referanced at once. Small revival of this exact type of neckline happened between 2000-2001, but after that I didn't see much of it again - Burda for example had only one pattern with neckline like that, on boat neck base and with contoured tie collar.
My pink dress is from 2001, since while asking seller for fabric composition, she told me that she got it back in 2001 (and fabric contents was more likely to be on separate paper tag). I knew it was from these years, but it was nice to have confirmation. I wanted to get it to see how this type of collar is exactly done, too.
Which did help me to figure out things like how longer collar should be and how much of neckline I should leave for the knot. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that it was cut on the bias - until I checked Patternmaking for Fashion Design and section on roll collars. The dress has zipper on the side, but I decided to try to see how to make something with closure located at center back seam. It wasn't a good idea at first - in rolled ones zipper should never be sewn to any part of collar, sewing it like into collarless dress is the proper way. In countoured, standing ones, I think it could work since it would be easier to finish it at the top as countoured collar is sewn from two (four in total) pieces compared to one folded rectangle (two in total) to roll neck.
First attempt was bad. The collar didn't look right, because I didn't cut it on the bias. 2nd atempt was better, but I felt knot on the center looks off with higher neckline, boatnecks look better with ties on the side. I didn't do the zipper right on this one. 3rd attempt was done using pattern I did use for actual piece, it was fine except the zipper... again. I got annoyed with making so many toiles and decided to cut it from proper fabric. I had this cotton for a while, bought it with intention to sew a top - it was too sheer despite print for a shirt/blouse and something simpler didn't feel right with this pattern (and it's low weight). It was the perfect choice for this top. I decided to sew the proper top with side zipper, as it would be easier to execute and finish off in nicer way.
Sewing is easy until you'll start sewing in the collar, even worse if you sew in the lining. Sewing the darts/panels is the first step, both on shell fabric and lining. Then, sewing the shoulders - after that you sew in the collar. Then center back seam on both layers, finishing off neckline (inside) and armholes is done by method with ugly name, but works if you have sewn center back seam or none at all. Then zipper, other side and only thing left is finishing the bottom and ends of the zipper - I made a huge mistake by adding 3cm seam allowance on the bottom - 1cm would be enough, as in the end instead hemming it, I sewn the shell and lining together - technically in a way that lining is sewn to jackets and coats, but it wasn't optimal. Another mistake was not leaving hole to flip entire garment out in one of panel seams. Ends of zipper aren't finished to a good standard, I had to sew in a lot by hand to make them look passable. Next top with neckline like this will be better executed, especially the lining.
index