I'll always regret not buying these issues of L'Officiel and Vogue Paris when I could. Especially anything with Małgosia Bela on cover. Hopefully next year I'll get few for higher price, but even few will make me happy. I just prefer something that back then was primarily made with women in mind. There's major diffrence between fashion magazines meant to be consumed by gay men and industry people first and ones made with average woman in mind. The latter speak to me so much, as maybe I matured enough and I feel like a woman and things made for women appeal to me. A woman of my age 25 years ago was a woman, not a girl still like it's now it seems.
American and British Vogue from years that interest me are only considered good because they are old, now anything that Wintour or Shulman did would be blasted as boring - but in reality artsy farts shot by Meisel that Franca put everywhere in Vogue Italia lead to making editorials the "fashion enthusiast" bait over showing clothese to women, even though I still adore how well curated ads in VI were, alongside stellar fashion news pages. Sometimes I want to get just one American Vogue from that time to see it in full, as based on these scans floating around (less compared to Vogue Italia and alt mags for sure) it reminds me of UK Vogue but shot by more hyped photographers. Simple and clear and done in a way that appeals to women first.
I've been looking more into British Vogue, Frank, Nova and magazines from my country for fashion, even just looking through less or more trendy pattern magazines gives me better ideas... I'm curious about British Elle. I saw some previews and it was really fun, maybe I'll treat myself with few a month as it's as much as one Paris Vogue now...
*You're not a girl. You're not a 25 year old teenager. You're a (young) woman, you're a woman.
*S*bstack is a cancer that makes people think they are great writers for churning out surface level slop, of course they feel entitled enough to paywall some links to spoonfeeded clothing auction links. I could make a wonderful career of that goddamn website but I have dignity, I won't ruin my obsessions for money, I like quiet life and writing only when I like it.
I want to write pieces about fashion here. Writing is exhuasting so doing it for living would require dropping stable employemnt which currently, is a stupid choice. Now I found out the name I missed and I needed, as I want to write about Scott Crolla's reign at Callaghan. The Italian label is a mystery, like Cacharel before Clements Ribeiro, though I heard Ghesquière did also design for it part time...
I've been fascinated with his F/W 1999 collection for the Italian label. I remember reading some bit on him somewhere ages ago, about that he was fighting with his superiors (the management I suppose) about refusing to put out three button jackets (a still very popular cut at time, great with concealed closure - you need to become a woman to like them by the way) which he was pressured to or any visible closures. The high built up necklines in jackets are fascinating, how they were done to fit that well? There's no darts or seams connecting to neckline like with stand collar, I've been wondering how it was done and I might be close. Some diagonal darts and roll neck collars but taller. I want to write about it and show my experiments on trying to draft/recreate/make pieces inspired by this collection. I've been obsessed with it for past two weeks.